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Grainline

German:
Fadenlauf

The grainline is a line on the pattern piece stating how the piece must lie on the fabric. It runs parallel to the warp threads.

Why direction matters

Fabric does not behave the same in every direction. Along the warp it barely gives, across the weft it gives a little, and diagonally it gives a lot. A piece cut against its intended direction hangs differently, twists on the body and can grow or shrink after the first wash. The grainline is what keeps that from happening by accident.

How it is drawn

A straight line with an arrow at each end, running the full length of the piece. When cutting, that line is placed parallel to the selvage. On a piece that lies on a fold, the fold line takes over the job.

When it is deliberately off

Cutting at forty five degrees to the warp is a bias cut. The fabric then stretches and drapes in a way it never would on grain, which is exactly what a bias cut skirt or a bias binding relies on. That is a decision, not an oversight, and it belongs on the pattern as clearly as any other grainline.

In the file

In PatternScan Pro you set the grainline in the editor, free or parallel to an edge, and you can turn the piece in steps of 45 degrees so it lies as it will on the fabric. In the exported file the grainline is a line of its own, not part of the contour.

Also known as
straight grain, grain direction

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